Hiking by the Black Sea

They say the Black Sea got its name from old navigation coloring. Red signified ‘south’ and black signified ‘north’ which could explain the Red Sea’s name as well. But after asking people here, they are convinced the sea got its name from it’s unusually dark (almost black) color during the winter months. Either way, we decided to go check it out for ourselves!

A couple enjoying twilight on the Black Sea in Agva, Turkey

There is an amazing Turkish hiking club based in Istanbul. Alper invited us on a Black Sea hiking trip one Saturday that the group was putting on.

We started by meeting on a private shuttle bus at 7:30 in the morning FILLED with Turkish cheer and exclamations of “Güneyden!” (Good morning!) People of all ages were hugging and kissing and singing and ready for the hike ahead. We then drove across to the Asian side and then northward to the Sea.  Once we were in the forests, we stopped in a rural village for lunch before the hike. Everyone brought homemade treats and a wonderful lady shared “Börek” (the Turkish form of Spanikopita.) We had tea from the local restaurant and met our fellow hikers. Most were very interested in the foreigners who were trying to learn Turkish… We had just inherited 30 new Turkish language teachers!

 Enjoying tea and börek before the hike

 The village

These grape vines covered the entire entry and drive of this village home!

 Another village home...ready for winter!

After lunch, most of the group sipped their tea, told stories and laughed, but a few of us went walking around the village. I saw rustic homes and many farms and gardens. Then, as we were walking back to meet the group, an older woman walked down the road herding her two cattle to graze. She greeted us; pointed her stick with a welcoming smile on her face; and said something I could not understand. She was pointing to her pasture and her apple trees. She then opened her gate and ushered us in to pick apples for our hike! It was such a wonderfully human moment.

 The kind woman with her cows

 The apples from her garden

Before we knew it, we were all on the road again and hiking around this massive lake reservoir which kept a reserve for Istanbul’s water supply. We continued into the forest and all it’s assortment of berries. Most of our Turkish companions would stop along the trail and grab a hand full of berries along the way. They would pick leaves and nuts and fruits and herbs...basically anything they saw.  I met so many people and they would teach us new phrases and words and point at things and say it in Turkish. 

 The reservoir

After the long hike, we got back on the bus and drove to a seaside resort town Agva (pronounced ‘Agua’ with a soft ‘g’….like water in Spanish). There I saw the Black Sea for the first time. It was a gorgeous blue this time of year. People were enjoying the sun, the beach and the water on what would be one of the last warm Sundays of the year. Everyone was having fun. There was a vast array swimsuit styles all the way from men in tiny-weeny speedos to ladies in modest Muslim swimsuits.

Black Sea beach

 Ladies sporting colorful swimsuits

After several hours enjoying Agva, we packed back on the bus and headed back to the city. We wound up and down and all around the hilly terrain near the sea and the sunset would peak in and out of sight as we drove. We then took a short break at a fortress on the sea for a glass of hot tea. The view was magnificent and the night sky was a deep blue against the, yes, very BLACK Sea.

 Night view of the rough Black Sea

After a long and fabulous day, I snuggled into bed around 11pm and slept extremely well that night!

Dinner in Asia

One evening our program director Alper treated the four of us to the most incredible dinning experience of my life. Not only was it my first time in Asia, it was the largest and most colorful meal I have ever sunk my fork into. Muazzez Ersoy Senol is the name of this incredible restaurant overlooking the Sea of Marmara and the Islands we visited this week.

After driving across the trans-continental bridge, we were welcomed to Asia! We then drove down the high fashion street of Istanbul with Escada, Chanel and Dior within arm's reach. In many ways it compared to the Champs Elysees AND we happened to catch it all in the middle of fashion week with models walking and fashion shows happening on the sidewalks. 

Crossing two continents on the bridge!

We turned a quick corner, wound through some back streets and opened our eyes to a gorgeous water view. We soaked up the sun and the views for a few moments before venturing on to an unforgettable meal.

 The four of us gazing into the sun

At this type of restaurant there are no menus. You are simply seated and drink orders are taken…but the rest is up to them. They start by bringing two large trays of individual plates and bowls with every color and flavor you could imagine in Turkish cuisine. They cover the entire table with these and even stack plates….and THIS is the appetizer course!

The table during the appetizer course

My plate of appetizer samplings

Bread Basket

Once you have tried everything and enjoyed the fresh flat bread along the side, some plates are rearranged to make way for the meter (3.3 feet long) wooden board with a long piece of flat bread covering it. Then from out of nowhere a long sword carrying the meat and vegetable kebab is escorted over by 4 men, is laid across the board. The men slide the sword out so gracefully leaving the juicy tender lamb, steak, chicken, tomatoes and peppers to enjoy.

 The removal of the sword

 The meter long Kebab

Once you have stuffed yourself even more and can barely move from happiness, the board is removed, the table is cleaned and dessert is on its way! The table is then covered once more but this time with a colorful array of fruits and pastries and ice cream.

 My dessert plate after sampling from some of the dishes

As we finished our dessert and moved into the traditional tea time, the sun set over the water which was a perfect ending to a perfect meal.

 Tea is the national drink of Turkey

 Our view during tea

THIS is a must for a truly exquisite and extraordinary Turkish tradition. Come hungry and prepare to be both full and amazed.

Day trip to Büyükada Island

When the city becomes too much for you and you need a quick get away, island life in the Sea of Marmara is only an hour boat ride away! 

 The first of nine islands in the chain

There is a grouping on 9 islands called “Princes Islands” that have long served as Turkish royalty and elite’s getaway spot. Today the mansions still stand but all are welcome to enjoy the sun of the islands. There are no cars (except for emergency vehicles) on the islands leaving all transportation to horses, donkeys, bicycles and your walking shoes. We ventured to the largest of the 9 islands called Büyükada, which literally means “big island.” It is situated south of the Asian side of the city with beautiful distant views to Istanbul. 

The horse drawn carriages 

 Two local boys on their donkeys

All four of us in the Arcadia Program decided to rent bikes and explore the island. If you decide to bike the entire circumference of the island you will go a little over 9 miles. It’s exhausting but worth it. Most visitors choose the horse drawn carriage, which is lovely but stays along the main roads, and it’s more of a hassle to stop for pictures. If you are up to it, I recommend the bikes! 

The four of us ready to circumnavigate the island.

The town is quaint with old exquisite homes and mansions next to gorgeous new constructions. Tall trees and rot iron fences line the residential streets with peeking views of the Sea as you glance down side streets going down to the water.  When you are close to the shore line, palm trees and more tropical foliage surround you. As you climb to the higher points of the island, crooked pine tree forests create the stage for magnificent views across the water. There are beaches available for swimmers with 25 Turkish Lira in their pocket and may get very crowded with nice weather. 

 View down a residential side street

 Looking off to a sister island and Istanbul on the horizon

 My pink bike and me!

 The crooked pine tree forest

After a trip around the island, we returned our bikes and went in search for gelato. One very common thing in Turkey is to have streets with “themes”. For example, one street has shops all dedicated to musical instruments, another has all shops selling kitchenwares, and another may have only shops selling sewing machines. Well, we found the Gelato Street!!!! YES! It makes it easy to shop around, check flavors and prices, before choosing where you will spend your money. I ended up getting Nutella gelato…my new favorite. 

 Gelato anyone?!

Exploring Sultanahmet

WHAT an incredible city! In many ways Istanbul is a mix of New York (hustle and bustle), San Francisco (steep roads and many stairs!), Paris (romantic outdoor parks with out-of-this–world views), Rome (Roman ruins and aqueducts around so many corners), Athens (Greek ruins and similar cuisines) and Mecca (Mosques every three blocks in most places). It has so much to offer and so much personality. Culture is streaming down every street and passion for life is everywhere.

I live in Cihangir, the artist and actor district that attracts the most “foreign” residents. I've learned quickly that every neighborhood had a distinct personality…like siblings…..but all share the Turkish ideals and culture…..as in a very connected and close family. In Turkey, family ties are of most importance. You can see this everywhere you go in some way. Personal connection is extremely meaningful.

In order to start getting to know the sibling districts I decided to start with the oldest of them all: Sultanahmet.

 View of Sultanahmet from a ferry

This district is the most known, most recognized and most visited by visitors. If you think of Istanbul and see massive Mosques towering above you, underground ruins, large avenues, museums, the Grand Bazaar, a Sultan’s palace, carpet shopping, etc….THIS is the place!

 The "Main Square" looking to the Hagia Sofia, what was once a cathedral, then a mosque, now a museum. A must see for sure!

 The dome of a public drinking fountain between the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sofia

                                             The Blue Mosque, largest mosque in Istanbul

 "Tourism Police" written in English.... If you need help, find these guys. 

Most municipal police are more helpful in Turkish :)

Helen and I walked through side and back streets to explore beyond the main sights and aren’t we glad we did! We noticed a very small sign on a window of a restaurant with the History Channel logo on it. We were very excited to recognize a sign and read further. It directed us into the restaurant (where people were eating on low chairs and tables and sipping traditional Turkish tea) and under the kitchen….down stairs into an old Roman ruin that is believed to be a portion of Constantine’s palace and thrown room during his time in Constantinople! UNDER THE RESTAURANT! Completely hidden from public sight. We were the only two in there. They were in the midst of excavation so there was no charge…but a portion of the proceeds from your bill at the restaurant is donated to the project. If you are in Istanbul some day and are interested in seeing this and eating at the restaurant to contribute to their work…ask me for more info :)

 The ruins below the restaurant!

We walked by the Grand Bazaar and News FLASH! It’s closed on Sundays! But no worries, there will be an entire post dedicated to the Bazaar once I make it there.

 The main door the Grand Bazaar

 A small bazaar on a side street

A few more observations and experiences:

Ladies: We walked all around and ran into a few learning experiences as well. For any young ladies traveling to Turkey, it is good to remember that (generally speaking) men will be extremely friendly if you are alone or with other women. It is important to simply keep walking. It’s not rude, it’s normal. They can be very persistent so just be aware! 

Visitors: Also for everyone who looks foreign... Carpet sellers are ruthless! They will coax you in every way to their store, offer you tea, and have a “no pressure” conversation. I have already experienced one of these scenarios and they literally make it impossible to say no once you stop walking. So if you aren’t interested at the time, don’t stop walking. Pretend you can’t hear or you don’t understand. Go to a carpet shop when you have the time or inclination, on your own terms.

Fashion: The fashion here is incredible! Ladies and men are constantly dressed to the nines whether they are going to work or the grocery store. Heels and cobble stones are a fact of life here. The Muslim women are by far the most fashionable with gorgeous long dresses and skirts and exquisite silk scarfs perfectly complimenting the ensemble. I recommend you take a picnic to the large park by Topkapi Palace and gaze in aw at the outfits that pass on the pedestrian boulevard below. 

  A family picnicking at the park

Animals: There are cats and dogs everywhere... And as you walk down the street you may see little bowls of food and water sitting out. This is because they are the “neighborhood’s pets” and everyone takes care of them collectively. Here is another example of family and community bonds.

And So It Begins

After an extremely heartfelt and touching goodbye from my family, my amazing man hopped on the flight with me to Dallas to start the journey off right. It was more emotional than my last goodbye to Germany one year ago this week. What a crazy adventure I am starting…..but as many of us know, the farther you fly from the nest, the stronger your wings get!

                          The Bon Voyage crew: Steve, Thomas, Mother, and Grandmother in front

Just before my feet left American soil, I got a kiss from my darling, a passport check, a ticket scan, and turned back long enough to blow a last kiss. I turned forward, dried my misty eyes and set my self forward. Once I reached the door to the largest airplane I have ever flown on (a double decker!), a beautifully dressed man greeted me in an exotic British accent and asked for my ticket. With an incredible amount of grace he directed me through the maze of seats to my place for the next nine hours. When I started navigating through the British Airways plane, my face lit up into a HUGE smile as the classical music on the PA system escorted me to my seat. I was beaming. I love this. I reached my row; met my two seat mates; and snuggled up to the window in no time. Once we got airborne, the flight attendant came by with a beverage service. She looked at me, gestured at the cart, and asked “What would you like to drink madam?” Madam. I could seriously get used to this whole British thing! I got up once before bed time for a stretch. I peaked into the galley and asked one of the flight attendants for a bottle of water. She replied by saying, “Wa’er? I don’t have a bot’l but grab a cup, love.” Love. Again, I could really get used to this talk!

The flight to Istanbul was good. Fatigue was starting to get to me, but I made it none the less. *****Another thing I want to say before I forget. When any of you fly to Istanbul, get a seat on the left side of the airplane (ABC side).......you get a view of the city on your approach… the right side is all water. ***** 

 Me with tickets and passport in hand

Once we parked at the gate, the Turkish started. I got off the plane and headed to passport control. Before I even got that far, a mass of people were crowded in the terminal. THAT is where the line started for passport control. It was mad house. Sooooooooo many people and no real line….more like a giant blob of people crowing and prodding and cutting big groups. I finally pushed my way into the roped off line area that gave a bit more control. That part took an hour to get through to the actual policeman with a stamp. In this length of time I made friends with the man in front of me. I didn't talk to anyone until he said under his breath “des ist a Wahnsinn”….this is insanity (in German). I immediately said “stimmt” and we spent the other 45 minutes talking. He is originally from Turkey with his parents living an hour outside Istanbul and he has been a German citizen for many years having studied both in Germany and Turkey when younger. He taught me a few Turkish wrods and phrases; gave me some pointers; offered translations; and complimented my “perfect” German every 10 minutes. He and I got our bags, walked through customs and met my Turkish contact, Alper, holding my name plate up!!! I greeted Alper then they exchanged a few words in Turkish. The man and I exchanged a few words in German, and he left.  Then Alper and I spoke English….it was a fun language moment. Alper was in high spirits and extremely welcoming…. He took me to the Starbucks near by where Helen (another girl going to this university) was waiting with her luggage.

She and I got to know each other while Alper started getting ready for another male student to arrive. This Starbucks is the first one in history not to have WiFi. No joke. Anyway, it gave us time to talk and get to know each other. By the time all three of us were there, and we got into the Taxi (no lines there either….just walk into the street and wait till a taxi stops instead of running you over.) It was rush hour. We didn’t care because the views were spectacular. We drove along the waterfront with tree lined parks everywhere. We drove through the old wall of Constantinople and under Roman aqueducts. We saw our university, Kadir Has, lit up in all it’s glory by the water as we were crossing the bridge north to the apartment. We got in and the apartment four of us will share (two males; two females) is really big. Lots of space. 2 toilet rooms for 4 people (yay!). I bath and shower. No AC…….just open windows… it will take some adjustment for me. I took a cold shower last night to help me cool off.

I can see the tops of the minarets on the Blue Mosque and the tops of the Galata tower from my window. Good closet space. We have heard 2 ‘calls to prayer’ so far: one at last night and one at 5:30 this morning. We are far enough away for it not to be too loud but still very pretty. This morning I woke up at 2am, 4am, 5:30am, 6:30am and finally up at 7am! Not bad for get lag. Once we were all up and dressed, we walked down to the bakery just around the corner. I walked in and started looking at the cases. Everything looked pretty good and I said in the best Turkish I could “I would like one, please” (pronounced ‘isteedolrum bier, luetfen’). It worked and I got what I asked for! Then I went to the check out and just gave him a 5 Lira and he gave me 2.50 back. So now I know how much it is! :D They ordered too then Ean went back to the apartment. Helen and I walked down almost to the water winding through the streets. It was spectacular. Winding steps with beautiful views of the Bosphorus, the straight that separates Europe from Asia. We walked right into a giant mosque and gazed high above at the towering minarets.

Tiled seen of neighborhood we walked in (north of the bridge)

By the end of the walk we were hot, sweating and out of breath….looks like someone is going to have buns of steal before this semester is over!

We will go to Kadir Has today for registration, tour, etc. We are also going to some local grocery stores for shopping and getting to know our neighborhood. Also getting our public transportation cards for the buses and metros too. Oh! And the truth comes out…..we don’t drink the tap water here. It’s all bottles.

Later in the day.

We went to the university. The walk to the bus is full of fascinating sites and major hustle and bustle. SO much is going on all the time. Think New York City. We reached the bus just as it was pulling away and then Alper just starts waving his arms and running by the bus. The bus stops abruptly, flings the door open and we jump on just before he started driving again as we swiped our cards and found a seat. Apparently road rage is a national activity here….or at least in Istanbul. Aggressive and choppy driving is the norm. People and cars share the road…which explains why it's the highest mortality cause in Turkey: car accidents involving a car and a person. You have to be totally aware of all surroundings when walking. Sidewalks are wide enough for single file lines…so most people end up walking on the street to avoid bottlenecks. But the streets are narrow too and barely allow two cars to pass each other without skimming the side mirrors which provides little place for people and cars on one street in harmony at a busy time of day. But this is all a blessing in disguise…because it forces you to find alternative smaller streets that are so picturesque and extraordinarily exotic.

The front of Kadir Has University

We got to the university and familiarized ourselves with the lay of the land. It is on the water with incredible views from all windows. More on the Uni later though. We explored the neighborhood around the campus and it is very different from our apartment neighborhood. We live in a hip, “bohemian” artistic area with a melting pot of cultures and religions (although I only ever see Turks and hear Turkish…no other languages spotted yet) and the Uni neighborhood is very old, traditional, ancient, conservative and so Muslim there is a mosque every three blocks. It was amazing. We ate lunch at a local “working man’s” restaurant, and it was delicious.

On our way back to the apartment, we got off the bus a couple stops early and walked the back streets which lead us to one of the most famous streets in Istanbul…the MAJOR shopping boulevard, pedestrian only. It’s less than 15 minutes from our apartment.

I walk EVERYWHERE. So much walking. I’m hot, sweaty, and loving it…really.

After we got back to the apartment and cooled off, we ventured to the grocery store. It was quite an adventure. It took us a long time on the shampoo isle to figure out what was shampoo or conditioner or moisturizer. All the bottles looked the same, very few pictures to explain what it was and of course no clue of the words. It was so much fun!

After our 4^th student arrived this afternoon, Alper took us out to welcome dinner at a restaurant across the street. He ordered without a menu and they started bringing out all of these little colorful dishes of so many unidentifiable things. Well, some things I did recognize like mini fried fish (eyeballs and bones included) and octopus were a few of our delicacies tonight. We had so many traditional Turkish dish samplers at our finger tips including a traditional (and very strange but yummy) dessert and, of course, tea (the national drink). All the food is so foreign. The only thing I recognize is the Dönner Kebabs…thanks to Austria and Germany.

Once we got back from dinner, Ean wanted to do the first load of laundry. This consisted of him sitting on the bathroom (where the small front loading machine is located) floor, spelling out every word on the washer as I typed them into Google translate in the hallway. It was time consuming but very effective! Now we are fully educated on laundry vocabulary!  No dryer.  It will all be drip drying. Including bedding.  Yes.

 Ean with the washer...

After that laundry lesson, we talked for a while and went to bed before another day in Istanbul. More to come!